d88&89 Sep22&23 Sat&Sun Sligo-Dublin-Holyhead-Euston-Sawbridgeworth

Sat
0900 train from Sligo
1430 ferry from Dublin
16:30 arrived at Holyhead for the night
South Stack lighthouse with the Lleyn Peninsular in the background

Sun
10:55 train (currently Mr Branson's) from Holyhead
14:45 at Euston then picked up by W
16:00 Sawbridgeworth

d87 c42 Sep21 Fri 910 Ballina-Sligo 1335 38m1707

FINISHED.  
Rolling countryside, sunny day, not much wind, not far to cycle  - -  comfortable finale.  
In Sligo, met up with people I'd encountered on the eve of my ride, June 30.   Quite a welcome in one bar.

d86 c41 Sep20 Thu 915 Castlebar-Ballina 1150 23m1683

One of those murky drizzly days  - -  several changes between dry&wet gear.
Short cycle day through pleasant countryside.
Arrived with time to make travel bookings.

d85 c40 Sep19 Wed 1940 Achill Sound-Castlebar 1340 52k2657

With the help of a chap from the local hardware store, I tried to fix the gear change mechanism, but failed.
Rode 32miles inland, in top gear, to a town I'd heard had a bike repair shop, and found it.   Bike repaired.

d84 c39 Sep18 Tue 1000 Louisburgh-Achill Sound 1800 43m1618

The majority of today's ride was along the 'Greenway' a reconditioned old railway route, with many deviations.   The cycling was comfortable except for some of the deviations, but slow through having to negotiate intersections, gates, and cattle grids.
Approaching Achill Sound

Then  - -  'Houston, we have a problem.'  
The derailleur gear change cable broke with the result that I was stuck in top gear  - -  fine for downhill but hard going uphill or cycling into the wind.   Made the last 11k to Achill Sound.   Phoned around but found no close cycle shops or sources for a derailleur cable.   I'll either have to complete the tour in top gear or find a way of rigging a partial fix.

d83 c38 Sep17 Mon 1000 Clare Island-Louisburgh 1800 19k2534

Explored a good chunk of Clare Island by bike,
the harbour

another view with Achill Island (tomorrow's objective) in the distant background

but couldn't get to the lighthouse because the road was becoming increasingly agricultural and I did not want to risk breaking a wheel at this stage of the tour. Took the 1645 ferry back to the mainland and cycled to the first village likely to offer me a bed.

d82 c37 Sep16 Sun 1020 Clifden-Inishturk-Clare Island 2000 46m1563

Cycled up over high ground skirting the Twelve Pins of Connemara, and down to Killary Harbour, Ireland's only fjord.

Then up through the Doo Lough pass

and down to Roonagh Quay.
Encountered several times a Brazilian couple, T&J, who I'd met the night before in Clifden.
Took the ferry to Inishturk

and then to Clare Island, arriving at 20:00 and being pointed to a friendly hostel for dinner and bed.

d81 c36 Sep15 Sat 0910 Carna-Cleggan-Clifden 1515 78k2512

Cycled further round the convoluted S coast of Connemara.
Visited the places where we had a wonderful holiday in 1984:
- our cottage with its own beach

- the lake from which our water supply was directly pumped

- the bar in Claddaghduff, which was also the butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker

..

d80 c35 Sep14 Fri 0850 Galway-Carna 1515 49m1469

d79 c34 Sep13 Thu 0930 Lisdoonvarna-Black head-Galway 1415 82k2284

Cycled up the coast with a view across typical Burren landscape to the Arran islea

Approached Black Head with another view of the Burren landscape

Then round the corner at Black Head lighthouse.

On the way to Galway passed the Dunguaire castle

..

d78 c33 Sep12 Wed 0950 Kilkee-Lisdoonvarna 1430 37m1368

Blustery winds, fast moving low clouds, frequent light showers, wind direction obliquely helpful.
Entered the Burren.

d77 c32 Sep11 Tue 0940 Kilrush-Loop Head-Kilkee 1540 69k2142

Cycled W following the N bank of the Shannon until the lighthouse at Loop Head

Turned NE then followed the Atlantic Coast until Kilkee.
Came across two contrasting plaques:
the first from the independence struggles

and bizarrely this

I'll find out the circunstances

d76 c31 Sep10 Mon 0840 Tarbert-Kilrush 1040 8m1288

Short ride to the Shannon Ferry, then a 20min crossing to County Clare.

My plan had been to cycle W along the Shannon to Loop Head then NE along the Atlantic coast.
However, the rain was by now belting down, so before I got too cold, on reaching Kilrush, I decided to stop for the day.   The rain continued on & off.

d75 c30 Sep9 Sun 940 Tralee-Tarbert 1533 82k2060

Heavy cloud and on & off drizzle, so many stops for on & off waterproofs.  
Cycled via Kerry Head but no vis for pics.
Clocked up 2000k cycling this trip.

d74 c29 Sep8 Sat 1010 Dingle-Tralee 1400 30m1229

Chose the route through the Connor Pass.   Turns out that this climbs 1500ft or 1/2 up Mt Brandon, Ireland's second highest mountain.  
Looked back on Dingle

and N to Brandon Bay.

5miles hard cycling up, then 25miles easy riding, part of it along the Tralee canal.

Saw many cyclists using this mountain route as their Saturday exercise, but without luggage.

d73 c- Sep7 Fri Dingle-Blasket Islands-Dingle

Day off from cycling, instead a boat out to the Blasket Isles, populated until 1952.
However the boat service from Dingle was cancelled and the substitute was a minibus to Dunquin then a shorter, smaller ferry to Gt Blasket.
View of the the unclouded parts of the Blasket Islea from Dunquin

The tiny port of Dunquin with its traditional rowing boats

A closer view of Gt Blasket sland

Getting from the ferry to Gt Blasket shore

The landing slip at Gt Blasket

Remains of habitation abandoned in 1952

Looking back at the mainland, Slea Head, from Gt Blasket Island

Clocked up 8,000 miles on this bike since summer 2009

d72 c28 Sep6 Thu 0945 Valentia Island-Dingle 1720 101k1929

Ferry from just outside the hotel, (once grand but now rather run down and with some low cost rooms)

to the mainland.
Looking down the channel at the lifeboat, the lighthouse and towards the Atlantic.

see yesterday's blog for the SUNSET version
Then E up the N Ring of Kerry shore, and W down the S Dingle coast into the wind.
100k day.
Met up with F in Dingle, relaxed over a beer or three, and enjoyed dinner and local music.

d71 c27 Sep5 Wed 0900 Sneem-Valentia Island 1515 46m1136

Out W along the S shore of Kerry then round the corner and N into beautiful bays

and natural harbours

Up through St Finan's Bay with views of the Skellig Michael, 10miles offshore, a site of pilgrimmage and an abandoned abbey.

then over  xxx head and down to Portmagee

Finally evening on Valentia Island (of BBC shipping forecast inshore waters fame)
looking from Knightstown harbour E to mainland Kerry hills

and looking NW through the channel to the Atlantic

.

d70 c26 Sep4 Tue 0902 Alihies-Sneem 1556 88k1755

First 5 miles the hardest yet this trip, steep ups and downs round a rocky headland.  
Then gradually the ruggedness softened cycling E along the N coast of the Beara peninsular.  
At Kenmare, crossed to the S coast of Kerry and headed W.

d69 c25 Sep3 Mon 0920 Bantry-Alihies 1515 43m1035

Beautiful morning.   Set out along the S coast of the Beara peninsular.
Weather fronts coming in from the SW were visible.   Eventaully the drizzle and fog arrived.  
Called in to say Hello at the internet cafe in Castletownbere, whose staff helped us when we were fixing our boat's drive failure. (see day35)
Passed the 1000 cycling milestone of this trip.
Wanted to experience the cable car crossinng to Dursey Island, but with visibilty down to not many feet, and soaked through, pushed on to Alihies for the evening.

d68 c24 Sep2 Sun 0840 Skibbereen-Mizen Head-Bantry 1618 58m992

Felt the legs were strengthening, after being cooped up while sailing, so went for a 60miler.
Out along the S coast of Mizen peninsualr to Mizen Head, reportedly the most SW part of the Irish mainland.   Must have been one of the calmest days ever at Mizen Head.
Visited the lighthouse

Got a view of the prior day's Cape Clear and a distant Fastnet Rock

Cycled back along the N coast of the Mizen peninsular and then over the start of the Sheep's Head peninsular and down into Bantry bathed in early evening sunshine.

d67 c23 Sep1 Sat 1300 Baltimore-Cape Clear-Skibbereen 1416 15k1502

Visited (by ferry) Cape Clear Island, the most southern inhabited part of Ireland.
Could just about make out the Fastnet rock in the distance as we approached our harbour.

Even in today's benign weather, the entrance seemed tight, but it must be quite a challenge in foul conditions.

Returned to Baltimore,

and cycled to Skibbereen for the night.

d66 c22 Aug31 Fri 950 Clonakilty Baltimore 1600 38m924

Chose to hug the coast.   Headed out to Galley head (see also day32)

Later a diversion to the 1000BC burial ground

just before Glandore

On reaching Baltimore, checked that the Clear Island ferry would be running tomorrow.

d65 c21 Aug30 Thu 940 Kinsale head of Kinsale Clonakilty 1345 49k1426

Beautiful morning as I headed S from Kinsale.
Nearly got to the Old Head oof Kinsale but was stopped short by the manned entrance to a golf club which allows only members to travel to the lighthouse.  
Hence a distant view of the lighthouse (see also day31)

It was off Kinsale Head thet the Lusitania was torpedoed in 1915 with the loss of 1200 lives.
Heading around Courtmacsherry bay I had views of its attractive town, quay, and lifeboat on the far bank of the Argideen estuary.

Along the way I came across several references to Michael Collins  - -  I'll ask about these.

d64 c20 Aug29 Wed 1000 Cork Kinsale 1245 19m855

First day back on the bike after about 5 weeks of not using the legs much.

Decided on a short ride on back roads, which turned out to be hilly.

Very blustery weather, with heavy rain for the last 2 miles.
Found out about the Spanish presence in Kinsale

Then had a Murphys or two in the Armada Bar